The Social Events
The pyjama party was a great experience. We were invited to the country home of the former port capitaine, Jacky, located near St. Etienne, about 100 km south of Roanne. The whole family was there including Jacky's wife, two brothers-in-law and their wives, Otilia, and a huge but gentle dog. Otilia helps out at the Bar Santa Monica, across from the port, where we have happy hour every Wednesday and occasional lunch get-togethers. Bill and Nancy from Eclaircie, and Barry and Karen from the barge Eleanor, and Barb and I felt priviledged to share this weekend. We are often reminded of the warmth and generosity of the French who don't hesitate to welcome you into their homes and share their hospitality, but this was an exceptional demonstration of friendship.
Each year the boaters organize an American-style Thanksgiving dinner to which we each contribute one or two dishes. The hostesses, Otilia and Martine, provide a turkey and we benefit from the best recipes from each boat. This is quite the do, with southern sweet potatoes, Dutch vegetables, Aussie salads, you name it! Just looking at the photo of the guys at the bar gives rise to the thought that things aren't too different from the start of any party.
One big town event is the annual food and wine tasting at Les Halles, the local fresh foods market. It costs 12 Euros to enter and you get a bottle of wine at the end of a two hour tasting session, complete with entertainment and fabulous French treats. Appetizing dishes include fresh oysters, fondue, sausage, canapes, wines of the region, soups, foie gras - a full selection often prepared by the best restaurants in the area. We went twice this year and certainly will keep it on the agenda for next year.
The French celebrate Christmas in a much gentler fashion than we do in North America. On Christmas Eve they hold a Reveillon, or dinner party, for their extended family and the younger kids open some presents. The exchange of presents among adults is far more limited so the season does not have the commercial feel of the massive spending spree to which we are accustomed. This year we were invited to share Reveillon with Otilia, her husband, son, and daughter-in-law, along with our friends, Bill and Nancy. Son Justo is a chef at a nearby catering company and has trained at several of the best restaurants in the area. He demonstrated his culinary skills by preparing an eight course dinner after Otilia got us started with caviar, smoked salmon, pate and white and red port.
Dinner was marvelous and included a fresh green salad with vinagrette and mustard dressing and foie gras, followed by a flambeed tiger prawn, then Coquille St. Jacques, all served with a crisp, white wine. This was capped by a pear sorbet with Poire William liqueur. Then we were served roasted capon with asparagus souffle, accompanied by a full-bodied red wine, which was followed by a cheese plate and champagne. Two desserts followed, the first a fresh fruit cocktail with lychees, red berries, and kiwi, and the second a traditional Buche de Noel, or yule log, and a white cake with raspberry coulis, again accompanied by chamnpagne.
Most of us in the barging community have had the opportunity to meet and socialize with French people along the canals or in winter mooring. We also get a fair exposure to French culture and way of life by watching French TV. I think most would agree that it is a very different lifestyle from that with which we are familiar. It has a peaceful, family orientation that is not consumed by chasing a buck; a very appealling aspect for retirees. It is not surprising that many bargers stay on after their cruising days, buying a permanent home in this lovely country. You just have to keep working on the language comprehension because, unlike most of Europe, rural France is pretty well unilingual. It's all part of the challenge and joy of living here.
Howdy Pilgrim!