Canal du Midi - 2004
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2004 was a busy year for us, both during the cruising season and after, when we both faced some urgent health matters.  However, the barge and the Waighs survived in tact, or at least missing only a few bits, and are ready to face the challenges of next year.

Our first cruise of the year was out of the Canal du Centre and down the Saone and Rhone Rivers to the deep south. We left quite early in the season, having been cooped up in port for eight months as a result of our early August arrival the previous year.  It didn't seem to be as early in spring as some of the pictures reflect, but who notices how cold it is when the trees are breaking into bud, the grasses are a new lush green, and the canals are calling. 

We cruised with our friends Bill and Fran as far as Fragnes, the last stop on the Canal du Centre before heading down the Saone River at Chalon.  I think that  because of their company, and  because they introduced us to new parts of the canal,  we ended that trip with a real appreciation of the Centre and rank it as one of the nicest  waterways in France.

I personally like cruising rivers.  They offer fewer places to stop but have more variation in the scenery, currents, locks, and villages.  One can cover substantially different geography  on the rivers whereas the canals tend to be mostly pastoral and laid back.  Understandably, it is only the Captain who thinks this way as the challenges for the First Mate include mammoth locks, desolate tie-up spots, and difficult sloping banks for village stop-overs.

After stopping in Avignon and Aigues Mortes we travelled through the Camargue, and crossed over the large salt-water lake, the Etang de Thau,  to the Canal du Midi which we followed as far as Castelnaudary.  We had three sets of wonderful guests during this three month voyage so the cruising had an added dimension of introducing new folks to the pleasures of canal life.

I will let the pictures save me several thousand words.  There were many things we liked about the cruise through the south of France and several things that were disappointing.  Most bargers we have met agree with our assessment but there are many who swear by the south and won't leave it.

Our view of this canal is probably tainted by the fact that we had to have the wheelhouse down most of the time due to low bridges and often it rained.  Rental boat traffic was a small nuisance, more because of their breakneck speed than their numbers, which we understand are considerably down over previous years.  The Plane trees were also a bother in that they are sadly diseased and lose their leaves at a great rate.  However, it is a trip that has to be done, a pilgrimage, and it gave us a chance to experience great southern wines, really interesting towns, the Cathar history, and some very memorable days spent with friends, other boaters and lock-side spectators.
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The leaves were just beginning to come out as we left Roanne for our first adventure of the year.
The Basilique of Paray is set next to the river which we follow on the Canal du Centre
As we move south on the Saone River we are treated to peaceful mornings and a very friendly current
This street in Trevoux is named Break Neck Alley in recognition of its steep decent.
As we moved down the Rhone to Vienne we encountered many Roman ruins like this temple to Augustus Livial which has been used as a church for part of its 2000 year history
Passing through Lyon you are faced with beautiful churches like this one in Old Town, overlooked by the famous basilica on  Fouviere Hill
Lyon offers good shopping, great restaurants, and good moorage - a place to spend a week at least.
No wonder they only dance on the the Pont d'Avignon - it seems to be missing a bit on the right hand side!
Along the Canal du Rhone a Sete we passed this village of cottages reserved for professional fishermen work the adjacent etangs for fish and shellfish
The lock at Bollene is the deepest in Europe at 23 metres.  Fortunately it has floating bollards so you don't have to manage ropes at the top.
We had to cross the Etang de Thau, a 23 km body of water that can react badly to winds from the Alps or Pyrenese, with waves up to 2 metres
We got the sense we were entering the tropical part of France as we encountered numerous Pelicans in the salty etangs
You hear a great deal about the Adge Bridge which sets the low standard for height along the Midi.  Unfortunately it is only a couple of cm lower than  every other bridge so the wheelhouse stays down
The famous castle at Carcason is well worth the walk up the hill.  It has clearly been rebuilt over time but has an authenticity not found in the world of Disney
Outside the drawbridge gate is this lovely carousel which has a charm of its own going back to an earlier time
Welcome to the round locks of the Midi ecluses.  They provide a particularly difficult problem for going up stream as the bollards are unreachable from on deck and someone has to get off the boat at every lock
One hears of the Plain trees bordering the Canal du Midi and they do provide lovely shade.  Unfortunately they are dying and some 25000 have had to be replaced
On the way back down the canal we stopped at Villeneuve de Bezier, a small town with just enough restaurants to be a good stopping point.
Back up the Petit Rhone through the Camargue provides a wild scenery that is unique to this land of wild bulls and beautiful horses
You don't always find the best places to moor, so here we tied up at a huge commercial sand loading facility along the Rhone
This nuclear reactor beside the river has a lovely painting of a child playing in the sand on one of the cooling towers
On the way down the Rhone we passed through the many vinyards that make up the famous Cote de Rhone terrior
Back on the Canal du Centre on the way to Roanne for a breather we were treated to this model ship display in the town of St Leger-sur-Dheune
Barb found the Midi quite enjoyable when it wasn't raining and she wasn't wrestling with the round locks, downed wheelhouse, or seeds dropping from the Plain trees.