Belgium - 2003

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We entered Belgium just south of Maastricht where the Maas River joins the Albert Canal.  Our first duty was to report to the lock keeper's control tower to purchase a permit for the canals.  This item, which costs only 1.05 Euros, has to be presented at every lock keeper station that you pass in Belgium. If you change the intended exit point, the lock keeper has to be advised.  In today's world of electronic tracking, where tolls can be collected on a road by reading a transponder on every passing car, this dangerous practice of getting off the barge to have a piece of paper stamped is anachronistic to say the least.  We were advised by the barging manuals that we were required to fly a Belgian Transit Flag, a white square on a red background, while in the canal system.  We never did find a chandlery that carried these, and only one of the commercial vessels flew the flag.  The only people using them were the cruisers, and then rather intermittently.  We entered Belgium on the 4th of July and left on the 9th, having decided at Namur that we would head west and enter France at Jeumont rather than at our original point of Givet.  This change was to accommodate a lack of water in the Ardennes Canal, which turned out to be not true.  We found Belgium to be a study in contrasts of beautiful old cities like Namur, Thuin  and Huy, long stretches of forest, and very heavy industrial development.  Probably the worst intended destination was Charleroi where the canal is lined on both sides by multi-storey roads and parking areas.  It looked like we were squeezing between great parking lots, at the end of which was a vast steel complex.  There is a fair amount of commercial traffic, particularly along the Sambre.  At one point we rounded a corner in an area congested with large commercial barges to be faced with one coming toward us at some speed.  Only the quick action of two captains prevented a nasty meeting of metal.

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le Fin d'Hiver

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Four Creamy Cheeses

We entered Belgium just south of Maastricht and sought our first night's refuge in the Prince Albert Canal - along with a half dozen huge commercial vessels.

I am not sure if Belgium is a signatory to the Kyoto Accord but we did get the impression they would be looking to purchase credits to support their industry

We weren't sure if this was a daredevil or high-steel worker at first, but it turned out to be a beautifully crafted statue in Liege.

We moored on the opposite bank to Huy on our way down river and had an excellent view of the old fort guarding the riverside town.

One of the best attractions at Namur is the old fort that has been well restored.  We were treated to a trouping of the colours that was well worth the long climb to the hilltop.

The next day we headed west toward Charleroi as we had heard that there were problems with the southern exit from Namur.  As usual these were not well founded and there were more difficulties with the western route.

At Charleroi we encountered some major steelworks and considerable commercial traffic as this is the junction of the Canal Charleroi - Bruxelles for barges heading north-west

Much of our voyage down the Sambre was spent in peaceful waters surrounded by trees and forests.  The river is very slow moving and on occasion was shore-to-shore duckweed.

We were rafted to commercial barges when in the locks.  While it is hard to see, this one actually had the Belgian cruising pennant, a white square on red.