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Ceiling |
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We came across the idea for the ceiling design when reading the book "Down Below" by Matthew Walker which has photos of some lovely ship interiors, from E.F.Hutton's "Sea Cloud" to John Wayne's "Wild Goose". The barge "Alicante", originally named "Vrouwe Sophia", uses cross beams finished with a strip of teak to support the ceiling and we liked the effect of the light wood contrasting with dark beams.
Rather than fill this page with text we will illustrate the construction process for the ceiling with a step by step series of photographs. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to contact us by email.
There are a couple of must-do's related to the ceiling that we should address:
First, make sure the steel is well insulated with at least 3 and preferably 5 cm of insulation.
Second, make sure there are no nails touching the metal roof and protruding through the wood as this will give you raindrops of condensation.
Third, make sure you paint both sides of the ceiling wood and use an isolation paint on knotholes to stop the sap leaving brown rings on your nice paint job. This won't show up for a year but can spoil a nice ceiling when it does.
Fourth, make sure the wood is clamped well when glueing as the clamping makes the glue work, not simply the presence of the sticky stuff. |
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The ceiling has to be fixed to the metal frame without touching it, and without having nails or screws in direct contact. |
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The glueing was repeated and the second strip was tacked using a nail gun to ensure a solid contact. This all has to be complete and taped over before insulation. |
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The first step is to glue plywood strips to the steel beams, making sure they are well clamped during the glueing time. |
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We used two layers of plywood strips to best fit the contour of the ceiling without tending to pull away from the frame. |
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After foaming and trimming we centered one board the length of the ship and built to the sides from this reference point. |
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Before positioning each board access holes have to be drilled to accommodate lights. |
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The boards are positioned and glued then tapped into place, making sure not to damage the tongue required for connection to the next board. |
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Next the board is nailed to the cross beams at an angle to prevent the nail touching the steel beam. |
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When everything is in place these "Tiny Tim Crutches" are used to jamb the board against the glue for a tight seal. |
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The last board on either side has to be cut to fit the space left. You may have to sacrifice the tongue in order to squeeze the board in place but good glueing and nailing will suffice for the one board. |
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It is very rewarding when it is all in place. Each of these boards has been painted on the top side, to prevent rot, and has been filled with a sealer to prevent sap leaking |
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The final steps were to paint the underside and fit beams across the ceiling. These gave a great effect, hid the board ends, and ensured a long lasting connection to the steel structure. |
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Click here for a diagram of the cross section of the beam and board fastening system we used. |
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